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Ñanduti: The Heart of Paraguay’s Costumes (In Spanish)
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Today’s A Journey
through Aesthetic Realms
will be presented
in Spanish,
with subtitles in Arabic,
Aulacese (Vietnamese), Aulacese (Vietnamese),
Chinese, English,
French, German,
Hungarian, Indonesian, Hungarian, Indonesian,
Italian, Japanese,
Korean, Mongolian,
Persian, Portuguese, Persian, Portuguese,
Russian, and Spanish.
I would say to those people
who are watching me,
to come to Paraguay,
to see all the nice things
we have here in Paraguay.
“Maiteípa,”
gracious viewers,
welcome to A Journey
through Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
“Maiteípa” means
“greetings” in Guaraní,
one of the two
official languages of
the Republic of Paraguay.
This magnificent country
is known for
its splendid nature,
abundant water resources
and time-honored
indigenous culture.
In today’s program,
we will have a glimpse
at its dazzling
traditional clothing,
featuring the world-famous
ñanduti lace.
This is the typical dress
of women in Paraguay,
which consists of
a ñanduti skirt, the Typoi
that is Ao po`i, the sleeves
made also in ñanduti.
Other than that,
it is accompanied with
a rosary of gold, earrings,
and the hair can be
in a bun or a braid,
which is accompanied by
a golden ornamental comb
and a flower.
The central characteristic
of ethnic Paraguayan
costumes is ñanduti.
“Ñandu” is spider
in Guaraní
and “ti” is the fabric.
The ñanduti fabric
is made on a frame
with cotton yarn,
circular in shape,
as we see in this item.
The ñanduti is used
for decoration, clothing,
as a table centerpiece, too.
The technique
of making ñandutí
has been passed from
mothers to daughters
for generations,
through traditional
family lineages.
My village is called Itauá,
where the ñandutí fabric
is woven.
I have been
a ñandutí weaver
since childhood and
have learned exclusively
from my
[previous] generations,
from my grandmother,
my great-grandmother,
my mother.
My family, all the family,
we are a very large family
and make our living
from it and
teach it to our families.
There is
a beautiful folktale about
the origin of ñandutí.
Ñandutí comes from
our ancestors,
that’s the story I know
and my grandmothers
tell me - that
an Indian on his horse
went galloping
in the countryside
where there was
an aromatic plant, and
on that aromatic plant
was a spider
weaving fabric.
And he went
to pluck the spider web
that was woven
to give to his beloved
who is called
Samimbí the Indian,
and his hand tore it.
And he was very sorry
because he wanted
to give his Sambimbí
the very beautiful things
that the spider was making.
The Indian flew back,
galloping back on his horse
and told his mother
he wanted
to give his Sambimbí
what he had seen
the spider weaving.
And the mother said
not to worry that
she would go the next day
to see right where
the spider was weaving.
His mother promised
to weave a chiripá for him
out of her white hair
and her black hair
in the same way
as the spider.
She went to look
and she devised the idea
for the ñandutí weaving.
And then the mother
wove the chiripá for him,
and gave it to her son
and took it to Sambimbí.
The ñandutí work displayed
is truly exquisite.
Now if I you allow me here,
come in those of you
who are visiting,
I will spread out
a very special tablecloth.
That’s my work.
The most beautiful colors
we have are the multicolors,
which are like
our country, the tropical.
They are
all beautiful colors
and different designs.
This is a design
that I am giving away
and showing, of the beauty
I have in my work.
And the most beautiful
thing is the color,
it is well blended.
It is not that we derive it
from a book or anything:
there is no book, but
the color we do it to taste,
we blend it and we have
a very nice thread here
in Paraguay, because
the color in cotton
is a firm color;
it does not lose color.
You wash it, starch it,
iron it,
because it is not plastic;
it is 100% cotton.
Here is a beautiful tupoy -
traditionally a very lovely
piece for the dancers,
which is done with the
folkloric ballet dancing ...
And here
I have a ñandutí outfit,
the ñandutí outfit
is very nice also
for people who dance.
Everything can be done
with the work
and this is also appliqué
because it is applied.
After the cloth, there are
many wonderful things,
including small pieces
there for a set of towels,
a bedside table,
where you can put
a ñandutí cloth on it.
That is very beautiful.
Here you have
some nice shirts that
are also my work too.
I want to show something
more important for youth,
for ladies, which is
very useful for the beach,
for being comfortable
at home.
These are very nice pieces.
In my life,
I’ve done baptism gowns,
wedding dress,
quinceañera gowns
of all kinds,
and special tablecloths
are always used
for weddings, birthdays,
for great artists,
that know me
and have bought.
Ñanduti is so deep-rooted
in the Paraguayan culture
that there is
a theatrical play
called “Ñanduti Weaver”
depicting a historical story.
“Ñanduti Weaver”
is an opera,
written in 1900, but
deals with recent history.
It is the time of
Don Carlos Antonio Lopez,
that would be
more or less in 1800,
so the wardrobe
at that time
was very ostentatious,
a lot of frills,
a lot of ruffles.
Each of the dresses has
a way of representing
a feature of every person,
or their personality.
We see for example
in the garment
I use for Pepe and Lola,
which is this green one
with embroidery
which has lace,
very much detail, bows,
so for a super-ostentatious
person, or you might say
for someone
who wants attention,
or a person
who is not shy at all,
full of ruffles, lace,
and is a rather energetic,
jocular personality.
The costumes were
what helped them the most,
and they could
take on the character
as their own.
In theater
as well as in real life,
the choice of the design
of traditional Paraguayan
costumes reflects
the wearer’s social status.
This is the suit that was
used in the second act
of Pepe and Lola,
who are twins.
This is the home one,
the day dress,
which would be
for the weaver Ñanduti,
which is fully embroidered,
which is
what she normally used
as a party dress.
Then we have the one
behind, the lilac one,
the beige one
which are the widow’s,
which are colors that fall
within the color range
of gray or lilac,
mostly used by those
who were widowed
at that time,
or else the black dresses,
which also are all
generally the same line,
that are very ostentatious,
frilly with bows,
with decorations,
accessories such as
hats, gloves, fans,
wide-brimmed hats,
full of ruffles in general.
Then we have
the bride’s dress,
that is this color,
so it’s more completely
angelical, rosy but with
more elaborate embroidery,
ruffles as well.
Thread by thread,
the exquisite lacework
and fabrics carry the love
and pursuit of beauty
of the weavers.
Over the centuries,
it has developed into a
cherished cultural heritage
for which the artisans
take great pride.
Imagine the very impressive
and broad scope of
craftsmanship involved.
The work we realize
is very valued within
the Paraguayan culture,
because we are also
trying to show people
that the work can be done,
and done well.
And the fabric is
very favorable ñandutí
for people.
I raised 5 children
and 11 grandchildren
and 9 orphaned siblings
who had to work
with my ñandutí work.
I'm just
a very independent woman
concerning my work
and am very proud
of my work, because
I know only in Paraguay,
there is this kind of work.
In the world
there is no other place
which does ñandutí.
And I thank the Lord
because I am a woman
that loves my work a lot.
I also appreciate people
giving me encouragement,
telling me
that it is very nice
that it should not be lost,
one’s life style of work.
It has been a joy
to be introduced
to the delightful ñanduti
of Paraguay.
May the illustrious
Paraguayan traditions
shine through
the fabulous products
the people
so caringly create.
Serene viewers,
thank you for joining us
in today’s episode of
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
Up next is
Vegetarianism,
The Noble Way of Living,
after Noteworthy News.
May the voice of Heaven
reverberate
in your gentle heart.
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