Today’s
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms will be
presented in Mongolian,
with subtitles in Arabic,
Aulacese (Vietnamese), Aulacese (Vietnamese),
Chinese, English,
French, German,
Hungarian, Indonesian, Hungarian, Indonesian,
Italian, Japanese,
Korean, Mongolian,
Persian, Portuguese, Persian, Portuguese,
Russian, and Spanish.
Greetings to
all your international
viewers and friends
on behalf of
the people of Mongolia.
Mongolians have
a long history of
traditional clothing.
Greetings,
gracious viewers,
and welcome to
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
The nomadic Mongolian
people are known for
their forthright personality,
skilled horsemanship,
and regal traditional
clothes.
The colorful costumes
have been developed
over the past 2200 years
to suit their unique
way of life
on the rolling steppes.
Whether during winter
or summer, whether they
are camping by a yurt
or dancing at a festival,
the Mongolian outfit
is always protective,
comfortable, and elegant.
Today, in the first of
a 2-part program, we will
have an in-depth look
at this precious cultural
heritage through
our interviews with
distinguished Mongolian
scientist Professor
Dulam Sendenjav and
participants of the 2010
Mongolian Deel Festival,
which honors
the clothing heritage
of the nation.
In the “Secret History
of Mongolia,”
there is a quote by
Bodanchir the Wise:
“Humans have brotherhood
as a deel has a collar.”
It means that
our traditional clothing
reflects the king and
subordinates and
the culture of leadership
and being led and united.
The traditional outer attire
of Mongolians includes
a tunic called the deel,
the belt, the boots,
the hat, the hairdress,
as well as accessories.
This is our Mongol deel.
There are various fashion
styles of the Mongol deel.
There are deels
for kings, aristocrats,
and everyday people.
The unique thing about
the Mongol deel is that
it has a collar. Here it is.
It has this upper part.
Here is the side,
down here.
And the sleeves
are made loose.
We made our deel
manually
using a sewing machine.
In the past
deels were made by hand.
It is trimmed with
three lines.
Deels for kings
and aristocrats were
always handmade and
had special decorations,
cloaks, and hats.
Our ancestors used to
wear this top.
It is open in front.
Sleeves are loose.
It has such a lower part.
Married Mongolian women
wear an outer garment
over the deel call “uuj.”
It conveys high morals
and trustfulness.
There is a saying that
“a woman
without an ‘uuj’
is a peaceful woman.”
This means that a woman
who is not married
has no responsibility
on her back
and has freedom.
Once she puts on
an “uuj,” it means that
her responsibility
becomes heavier and
greater for the family.
If they become a widow,
they take off the “uuj.”
This is the clothing of
a woman, married and
living with her husband.
The belt represents
dignity and protection
of fortune for
Mongolian men, and
must be handled with care.
When two men exchange
their belts, it symbolizes
their promise to support
each other through
good as well as
challenging times.
It is said that a man’s
destiny is kept in his belt.
That is why belts are not
to be placed somewhere
randomly or
down on the ground,
and when one is sleeping
it is kept tied
in a special pattern
called a “rabbit ear.”
If there is one thing that’s
more sacred than the belt,
it would be the hat,
as it is always placed
on top of the belt
and other clothes
when they are not in use.
A Mongol hat has
such a shape.
To start from the top,
a Mongolian hat always
has this red ribbon.
This ribbon is tied
making a special pattern
and design called
“ulzii.”
This flame symbolizes
that the Mongol nation
is always kept upward
like a flame.
Hence,
Mongolians are called
“Red-ribbon Mongolians.”
A raised top represents
high saintly mountains.
Inside it is blue,
symbolizing
a high mountain
becoming a blue ocean.
From here, tassels
come out with 64 or 32
pieces hanging down.
This symbolizes
32 and 64 ethnic groups
that spread out
from the Mongol nation.
The highlights of
a Mongolian wife’s
costume include the deel,
the hat and hairdress,
and the ornaments made
of silver and jewelry.
People can see whether a
woman is married or not.
The clothing shows.
Deels for married women
have pleats
in the shoulders.
Yet, deels for young girls
have no such a thing,
and this is called
“tatakham.”
This is all for young girls,
front and back.
This is a knife.
Girls get married and
live with their in-laws.
When a daughter
gets married, parents
prepare a full set of
clothing for her.
This has all necessary
utensils. A knife.
It is a very useful
household tool.
Can you take it out
and show it to us?
This is a knife.
This is a lighter.
Woman work in kitchen
and had to have lighter.
This is very old stuff.
This is used to
make a fire, and
when you grind it
on top of hay and wood,
it makes fire.
This is a pincher.
If something goes in here,
it picks it up.
This hat’s round shape
has more detailed parts.
There are 11 parts to it.
It is said that
it will represent family.
Buryat know
their 11 generations
background.
It is believed that
Buryat has 11 fathers.
This means that the clan
is born from 11 fathers.
This hat has
a raised top part.
On top of one’s head,
there are important spots.
It is designed not to
put pressure on them.
Everyone has energy
in himself or herself.
We are surrounded by
a rainbow colored aura.
So, when it has such
a high top it makes it
conducive to receive
energy from the sky.
These shoes have
a special design.
This helps a person to
walk faster and not to
disturb the earth’s soil.
How comfortable is it?
Very comfortable.
For instance,
here in the lower part,
it is loose, right?
This is
for a married woman and
for a pregnant woman.
It makes walking
free and easy.
The choice of colors of
the costumes reflects
the surrounding natural
environment
and belief system of
the wearer.
This blue color top
symbolizing Lake Baikal
represents water.
There is a small island
in the Baikal Lake
called Oikhon.
This ribbon represents
Oikhon Island which
reminds of praying to
the Oikhon Heaven.
This is the meaning.
This white color
symbolizes and supports
the destiny of a human.
It symbolizes purity.
It means
purity and cleanliness.
Black and red
is the life being lived and
there is always a fight
between these two.
Yet, black and red
always go together.
This shows the life
that people live.
Does the white color
being on top mean that
it always wins
over red and black?
Yes, yes.
Does it mean that
a pure and clean heart
is the best of the best
one can have? (Yes.)
During our reporting
at the 2010 Mongolian
Deel Festival, we were
fortunate to meet
the grand prize winners.
Let’s found out
what they are wearing.
We are very delighted
about winning
the first prize.
I think
this is in appreciation of
our traditional costumes
and the generous blessings
of my fellow
Mongolian people.
The costume
we are wearing belongs
to the 13th century
and the period of
Genghis Khan.
This deel was made
by Ms. Lhagvaa.
She designed the color,
button points and collar
according to how it
would have been suitable
to that type of person.
This is the most likely
version of design
in those days.
Mongolian costumes
are not only worn by us
but also by foreigners,
and I am very pleased
with the fact that they are
also appreciated by them.
My deel was designed by
Ms. Tungalag, an artist
who painted the portrait
of Genghis Khan, and
was made by Mr. Ganaa.
This part facing west
means to obtain wealth.
I am very pleased that
I won first place
in this festival.
Could you explain
in detail about your deel?
Why does it have
such patterns?
This deel has a meaning
behind it.
It has no buttons.
In ancient times,
deels had no buttons.
This is to keep the deel
loose so that it is airy
and the sunlight
can penetrate it to
give energy to the body.
This is to receive energy
from Heaven
and from nature.
The graceful and
practical, traditional
Mongolian clothes
reflect a life in harmony
with nature.
Please join us for part 2
tomorrow, where
we will find out about
ethnic varieties of
Mongolian costumes
and the influence of
the exquisite apparel on
other parts of the world.
Righteous viewers,
thank you
for your company
on today’s episode of
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
Please stay tuned to
Vegetarianism:
The Noble Way of Living,
after Noteworthy News.
May the heavenly
sound stream
uplift your soul.
Today’s
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms will be
presented in Mongolian,
with subtitles in Arabic,
Aulacese (Vietnamese), Aulacese (Vietnamese),
Chinese, English,
French, German,
Hungarian, Indonesian, Hungarian, Indonesian,
Italian, Japanese,
Korean, Mongolian,
Persian, Portuguese, Persian, Portuguese,
Russian, and Spanish.
Pure-hearted viewers,
welcome to
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
Today to conclude
our two-part series on
traditional Mongolian
clothing, we will look at
the diversity of these
costumes among various
Mongolian ethnic groups,
and how this cultural
treasure has influenced
other parts of the world.
We will hear from
distinguished
Mongolian scientist
Dr. Dulam Sendenjav,
fashion designer
Uyanga Tsembel, and
participants of the 2010
Mongolian Deel Festival.
A Mongolian costume
is very abundant, thus
it constitutes many kinds
of details.
In Mongolia,
there are more than
20 ethnic groups;
all those have about 400
kinds of deel, 20 kinds of
hats and belts, as well as
20 or 10 kinds of boots.
According to the many
ethnic group differences,
like, their way of living,
the characteristic of
the territory, traditions
of the ancient times,
the differences in age,
gender, as well as
their title or position, all
ethnic groups garments
differ from one another.
First, let’s look at the
costumes of the Khalkh,
the largest ethnic group,
which represents
over 80% of the total
Mongolian population.
I came from
Dornod Province to
participate in this
Mongol Deel Festival.
Very recently I also
attended an Eastern
regional trade fair of
traditional clothing and
won the Grand Prize
for my costumes.
I am wearing a costume
of a married woman of
the Khalkh ethnic group.
I made this myself.
After retirement, I started
engaging in the making
of traditional clothing.
I wear it often
and feel so proud of
being a Mongolian.
Why does the upper part
of this Mongolian deel
face this direction?
It has a meaning.
We say “Khurai”
by hand like that.
This is called “Khurai,”
meaning “harvest”
or “to keep within.”
We offer to our ancestors
and receive
their blessings, and
when we get presents
we put them into
our chest pocket.
That is why
it is on this side.
When we receive presents
we make a gesture
clockwise to express
our thankfulness.
Could you please explain
now about the costume
you are wearing?
My deel is called
“Khaj magnag.”
This embroidery made
around the dragon is
an ancient traditional
Mongolian art
called coin knitting.
This is made with
coin knitting.
I made this costume
purposely for this festival.
And I put on a belt worn
by Mongolian men.
We say the body is inside
the belt, inside the body
exists the soul.
This means that the belt
protects the body and
the body protects the soul.
Mongolians keep the belt
tight, which means
keeping your soul strong.
The reason why I wear
a hat is that there are no
Mongolians without hats.
The head is inside the hat,
and inside the head
exists the world.
Ancient Mongolians
respected their hats.
Could you explain to us
about your hairstyle?
This is called
the third eye of
ancient Mongolians.
The third eye is hidden
behind the hair.
It means not to lose
anything of yours,
but harvest it within.
The Kazakh people are
a Muslim ethnic group
which account for about
4% of the country’s
population.
Their clothing features
elaborate embroideries
and a characteristic
women’s headdress and
short-sleeved overcoat.
We are attending from
Songino Khairkhan
District with
traditional costumes of
Kazakh nations.
Our traditional costume
has a long history.
This embroidery is
handmade
and by sewing machine.
This is all handmade.
This was made by my wife.
This is a silver belt.
Same as
Khalkh Mongolians,
we also have a tradition
of wearing silver belts.
This is a knife.
This is called
a “Chinjaal” knife.
This in the back
is called Ekse.
What is it used for?
This is a belt.
These are used for
hanging other appliances
and hand tools.
This white cloak is worn
by elderly people.
This is one kind of
decoration which is used
to keep women’s hair
nicely and it is called
“Bursh Dama,”
but we ourselves name it
as “Kasal keste.”
We did all these
decorations including
this “Kasal keste.”
This is included
in all our decorations.
I spent two months to
make all my clothing,
handmade by needle.
What do these
decorations of the
Kazakh costume mean?
This is called
“goyo-todrek.”
Todrek is made for
decorative purposes.
It was made in olden time.
Wearing traditional
Kazakh clothing makes
you feel proud of your
culture and heritage.
Besides Khalkh and
Kazakh, other Mongolian
ethic groups include
Dorvod, Bayad, Buryat,
Dariganga, Zahchin,
and Urianhai.
Each can be identified
by the distinct variations
in their costumes.
The beginning of
Mongolian rich clothing
heritage can be traced
back to more than
2200 years ago,
before the era of Khunnu.
It originated
in the Stone Age.
And then it became
more developed during
the period of Khunnu,
where the Mongolian
deel with
collar originated, which
has either a right
or left barter.
There were special
instructions to wear
Mongolian garments
in the Khunnu period.
The generation and
development can be
divided in 4 categories:
First, ancient times;
second, Middle Ages or
the 13th century,
third, later time or up to
the 17th -19th centuries;
and finally, modern times
or up to the 21st century.
So it has evolved and
changed over a long time.
One of the features of
our traditional clothing is
that it is closely linked to
state rituals and religion.
For instance, it is said
that the hat represents
blooming state,
deel represents
expanding state,
outer deel for strong state,
belt for fulfilling state,
and shoes
for supporting state.
At the ancient time,
Mongolians used to show
the culture of symbolism
of Mongolian customs
during state events,
ritual, and ceremony.
Sometimes these are
even reflected in oral
and written laws and
regulations.
Specially, during
official, state high-level
diplomatic visits, state
attendants and officials
strictly followed the rules
of wearing
special clothing and
performing rituals.
Even ordinary citizens
followed a clothing code
during festivity and
ceremony including
the Lunar New Year, etc.
Through centuries of
cultural blending,
many elements displayed
on Mongolian costumes
can also be found
on the clothing designs of
neighboring countries.
Mongolia was
a great empire
in the ancient times.
Yes, since
after the dependency of
Manchurian Empire,
our Mongolian national
costume became reliant
on the costume of
Manchurian Empire.
Thus the Manchuria
took the style of our
Mongolian costume style,
extended and spread it
over Southeast
Asian countries
throughout history.
While studying
the clothing style of
Bogd Khan Jebtsundamba,
who is a spiritual head
and monarch of
Mongolia, I discovered
reflections of much
symbolism related to
Indian, Tibetan,
and Mongolian history.
So, the deel of
a Mongol king had
9 dragons described.
But Manchurian kings
had 5 dragons described
on their clothing.
As Mongolians worship
the number nine, they
described nine dragons
on the outer deel.
So, from laymen
to noblemen, Mongolians
have reflected their belief
in the decorations
of their deel.
Today,
traditional costumes play
an indispensable role
in presenting the
magnificent Mongolian
culture to people
from all over the world.
The Mongol deel is
a part of our identity and
Mongolians are
increasingly appreciating
their national culture
and traditions,
wearing deels more often.
I am very proud of it.
Also foreign tourists are
very interested in
our national costumes
and they are often seen
wearing them.
What do you think about
Mongolian
traditional deel?
I like it a lot.
That’s why
I very much want it.
And I bought one and
also have made one
several months ago,
because I want to have
a real nice deel which
also reflects my work
which is with water
in Ulaanbaatar,
so it is the blue color of
the water and
I like this a lot.
It feels comfortable to wear.
Could you please share
with us your impressions?
I am very happy to
participate in this event
together with foreigners
who came from overseas.
You have participated
together
and won this prize?
Yes. We won it together.
What ethnic group does
your costume belong to?
This is a costume of the
Zakhchin ethnic group.
I’ve been in Mongolia
for almost three years.
So I have started to feel
little bit like Mongol,
and that’s why I have
participated of course.
Please come and join us
in the Mongol
Deel Festival.
And wear Mongol deel.
I would like to encourage
all children to wear
the Mongol deel.
I would like to tell
modern youths to be
more conscious about
their ancestors’ customs
and culture and
be compassionate
for our world
and love our world.
We sincerely thank
Professor
Dulam Sendenjav,
Ms. Uyanga Tsembel,
and participants of the
Mongolian Deel Festival
for introducing the
fascinating traditional
Mongolian costumes.
From the dazzling colors,
elegant motifs,
lavish ornaments, and
practical designs,
we appreciate evermore
the continuing pursuit of
truth, virtue and beauty
of a noble people.
May the rich cultural
heritage of
the great nation of
Mongolia flourish
in Heaven’s
abundant blessings.
Honorable viewers,
thank you for being
with us today on
A Journey through
Aesthetic Realms
on Supreme Master
Television.
Coming up next is
Vegetarianism:
The Noble Way of Living,
after Noteworthy News.
May Heaven’s grace
bring joy
to your loving heart.